Wednesday, May 1, 2013

An AVE ride, Part 2


That's more like it! Interior of 
Barcelona's more traditional 
Estacio de Franca

by Pat Casey
OIEC History Instructor

As I mentioned in Part I, Barcelona Sants may not be the most romantic rail station in Europe but it is well designed and user-friendly; the first time I went there I quickly figured out where to go to find my train.

(Barcelona does have a grand and gloriously traditional rail station, BTW; called Estatió de França and formerly the city’s main station. Now it serves mainly local Rodalies trains but it does have overnight Trenhotel service to Paris.)

Sants also serves a number of local Rodalies trains, with access bundled at one side of the main hall and gates for the AVE high-speed rains at the other. One thing that Sants’s two-level design does is direct passengers to the proper platform, so it’s actually pretty tough to get on the wrong train.  The gate leading to your train opens roughly 15 minutes before departure; a gate agent scans your ticket and then you head downstairs to the platform. Since Sants is a terminal – most (if not all) AVE trains originate or end there rather than only pass through – your train is waiting for you as you descend to the platform.

The RENFE ticket printout lists your Coche (car) and Plaza (seat) number, and
That's Car 7, Seat 6B, 
leaving Sevilla at 2:50 pm, 
arriving Barcelona 8:22
the cars are sequentially numbered and have very clear electronic reader-board signs at all doors, so finding your car is straightforward.  AVE trains offer Club (First) Preferente (Business) and Tourist (second) class. First & Business Class features three-across seats and a meal and drinks served at your seat; second has four-across seating and food and drinks available in the Café Car. The food offerings seemed kind of basic – a selection of Spanish sandwiches (bocadillos), and croissants, along with a full array of soft drinks, beer, and small airline-bottles of whiskey, gin, and vodka.

These Café Cars have a counter and small tables where you can stand as you eat, but unlike some international trains (and long-distance Amtrak trains), there is no sit-down dining car service.

I went Tourista class and found the seats extremely comfortable and roomy. Each has a massive tray table, big enough to comfortably set up a laptop, and the cars have overhead luggage racks and some room for suitcases at the front and rear. A reader board at the front of the car lists the Coach number as well as outside temperature and current speed – fastest I ever saw was 300 KPH (186 MPH), although the trains are capable of going faster. There are also comparatively small – 13” or so – video monitors on the ceiling, which show full-length movies as well as an animated map showing your location.

An unusually wet Spring this year means
normally arid Andalusia is gloriously green
My train for Sevilla left the station right on time, and moved comparatively slowly through Barcelona’s outskirts but soon the reader board indicated we were doing 300 kph. The ride was quite smooth and there was a definite sense we were moving quickly, especially if you looked at things fairly close to the train window as we whizzed by.

When the Spanish began building the high-speed network in 1992 they decided to build entirely new stations in all but the largest cities (Madrid and Barcelona). As a result the stations are a bit less central than classic European rail stations, but all are within ten minutes of the center of town.

My train was nearly full and it seemed like a fair number of people boarded and left the train at intermediate stations such as Tarragona, Zaragoza, Ciudad Real, and Córdoba. We arrived at each intermediate station on time, as well as in Sevilla – a journey of nearly 1000 km (600 miles), covered in 5 ½ hours – that’s the same distance as San Francisco from Portland – imagine getting to the heart of town in less than 6 hours!


All photos by Pat Casey


Sources:




http://elpais.com/elpais/2013/01/15/inenglish/1358253198_135607.html

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