Oregonians in Barcelona '13: Montjuïc Park

By Austin Baranko

Portland Community College

More than the average park possibly dreamt of, the confines of Montjuïc Park bleed with historical significance. Rising 184.8 meters or roughly 605 feet above Barcelona, Montjuïc is hardly what most would consider to be a mountain. While perhaps Montjuïc lacks in certain vertical accomplishments, it does satisfie the avid explorer, or nature lover, or student of local history with feats of a tumultuous past, and a promising future. From the Neo-Baroque style Palau Nacional (National Palace), built in 1929 for the International Exhibition and which now houses the Museum of Catalan Art to the Olympic Plaza, constructed for the 1992 games, a visit to Montjuïc is essential to the understanding of Barcelona’s harrowing history.

In medieval Catalan, ‘Montjuïc’ literally translates to ‘Jew Mountain.’ Evidence of the donning of the term can easily be spotted today. Nestled on the north side of the mountain lies a neighborhood by the name Poble Sec. In modern times, this is widely considered to be the immigrant neighborhood, which until recently housed forty six percent of the city’s population. A noted exodus has a occurred in more recent times, due to a flailing economy. The eastern slope is steep and rocky, providing great views to the port below, a boasters a strong sport climbing scene, which gladly calls these mountainsides home.

Despite the current bubbly state of affairs one may perceive upon first entrance in to the park, Montjuïc has been the home to many hardships. The oldest surviving structure on Montjuïc is the aptly named Montjuïc Castle, constructed in 1640. Originally designed to protect the city against invasion, the castle found a different use under the reign of Spain’s fascist dictator Francisco Franco (1939 - 75). Once used to protect and serve the city, the guns of Castle Montjuïc were pointed towards the city. During this period of the Spanish Civil War and the Franco regime which followed, Castle Montjuïc saw the execution of hundreds of thousands of political prisoners. Nationalists, socialists, anarchists, trade union members, and Republicans met equal fates amongst Castle Montjuïc’s walls under Franco’s rule. More often than not, these executed prisoners found their final resting place in a mass unmarked grave site, many of which can still be seen today, at el Cementerio de Montjuïc.

It may prove difficult to compare Montjuïc to an average American urban park. This could perhaps be due to its history, or its modern societal significance. Today Montjuïc is a popular picnic location and a hive of activity serving the entire city. In the summers, avid movie fans view classic cinema at sunset on the same grounds that once saw the ruthless execution of all those who opposed the Franco regime. There lies a degree of magic held deep within the core of Montjuïc that cannot be properly explained, only experienced -- as could be said for the whole of Europe.